You can thank social media for the rise of the Russian manicure. It blossomed from the land of its namesake across the globe over the past few years. Now, ultra-clean cuticles are all over feeds, and “Russian manicure near me” is one of Google’s hottest beauty searches. Let’s investigate what this expert manicure technique involves.
What is a Russian Manicure?
A Russian manicure isn’t just done dry, it’s extremely meticulous, especially with regards to the cuticles. As a result, a finished set is beautifully clean, with the polish appearing to flow out from the skin.
The Dry Manicure
When people describe it as a “dry manicure”, they mean there is no soaking in water or in acetone. The old polish and dead skin are removed with a nail drill. However, a tech may ask the client to wash and disinfect their hands before starting the process. That’s because the tech will soon be performing a surgery of sorts.
Specifically, the technician will clear away the cuticles and create a space underneath the eponychium where they will insert the polish. It creates the illusion of a flawless join between the polish and the skin.
A Russian Nail Pro Explains the Russian Manicure
Kamola Malikova of Minx Nails in LA provided a step-by-step explanation of the Russian manicure process. She said that it’s so widely used throughout Russia and Eastern Europe now that it’s rare to see salons using traditional methods like soaking the hands to remove polish or soften cuticles.
The first step is to use an electronic nail file to clean the old polish from the surface of the nail. This takes skill to do properly without causing damage or injury. However, it has the benefit of not exposing the skin to toxic acetone or drying out the nails.
Next, the tech shapes the nail and polishes the bed. Then, the entire cuticle is removed from each fingertip with the drill or sometimes scissors or nippers. Finally, the tech uses a sharpened type of cuticle pusher tool to lift the eponychium and make space for the polish.
As you might imagine, this is a very thorough process that takes quite a bit longer than a traditional manicure. But grooming the nails is only the first part.
Ms. Malikova added that painting the nails in a Russian manicure takes even longer than grooming them. That’s because pros use a special base coat followed by a structured manicure. Most techs use a hard gel overlay with a gel polish color on top. The idea is to create a set that lasts for four weeks before it needs to be backfilled. In this way, the natural nails are protected while they grow out.
What’s more, since the polish is applied under the cuticle, it takes longer for the manicure look like it needs upkeep. Therefore, a Russian manicure is ideal for busy people who don’t have time for frequent salon visits.
Russian Manicures are Provocative
You may see the word “controversial” when you read up on Russian manicures. There’s a legitimate reason why and it has nothing to do with current events or culture. The issue is the risk of injury when an untrained or undertrained person tries the technique. Ms. Malikova stipulated that the techs in her salon who perform this service have five or more years of experience. Also, they use sterilized, not simply disinfected, tools.
The dangers of an improperly done Russian manicure are infections, injuries, and weakened nails. The chances of a negative outcome are high because it relies on a drill to remove the old polish and cuticles. Worse, a tech doesn’t just push back the cuticles and trim the excess, they eliminate them and open a pocket, separating the proximal nail fold from the nail bed. A careless moment could mean burning or cutting the client, thinning the nail too much, or opening up the fingertip to an infection. Clients with dark skin might end up with hyperpigmentation around the nails.
These problems are why salons that offer the service are particular about having trained staff that take their time to do the job right. But how can you get the training you need for a Russian manicure?
How to Do a Russian Manicure
if you are interested in learning how to do a Russian manicure, please don’t rely solely on TikTok videos or Instagram tutorials. Instead, there are cosmetology schools that offer Russian manicure courses at a reasonable price. Furthermore, you’ll need the proper tools and a way to sterilize them if you’ll be performing the service at home or in your own salon.
One of the essential items is a professional nail drill that can run forward or reverse with adjustable speed. We recommend choosing one that’s comfortable to use and is powerful enough to do the work by itself without making you feel like you need to apply extra pressure.
Nail Drill
What’s more, it’s crucial to have drill bits like the nib bit or small cylinder. Another favorite is the diamond flame because the point exfoliates the dead skin around the cuticles while the rounded part takes care of the fold around the nail.
Drill Bits & Sanding Band
Don’t forget the dust collector. It may seem like a frivolous expense until you realize just how much more dust you’ll have to deal with when you sand off the polish instead of soaking it off in acetone.
L'UGX Professional Portable Rechargeable Nail Dust Collector
If you’re not comfortable using an e-file to work on cuticles, it’s not uncommon for Russian manicurists to use nippers or scissors. Upgrade if your old tools are dull or rusty.
Cuticle Nipper-Pusher-Clipper
Russian manicures use builder gel to protect and reinforce the natural nails. It makes for an easy to maintain set that doesn’t need to be completely cleaned off each time. That lowers the risk of damaging natural nails.
LAVIS Builder Gel
Since there is no set style for a Russian manicure, the shape, length, and color are completely up to you. Why not finish with a gorgeous cat eye polish?
LDS Fruit Cat Eye Collection
Lastly, just because it’s a dry manicure doesn’t mean it doesn’t include cuticle oil!
Cuticle Oil & Massage Oil
Conclusion
We’re here for you if you’re ready to try something new and expand your skill set. Shop our store for jaw-dropping deals on trendy colors and essential nail supplies. Now’s the time to make those nail dreams come true!